Beihai Park And Coal Hill
We last saw Chucky and the ever lovely Dragon Lady rolling along through the Purple Forbidden City overworking the 35mm camera and digital [he took 4 rolls in the forbidden city alone] and heading for the North Gate to meet our Driver Zhang Yong Shan [who we called Mario Andretti for his kamikaze style of driving but who we found out later refers to him self as the “Kung Fu Driver”].
We are delivered to a delightful Szechuan style restaurant for lunch. Soup so-so, Jasmine tea too aromatic, beef and chicken dishes “Ok”… had to ask for rice but the beer was good.
Try to get a pic of the cute waitress trying on a paper cooks hat but she spotted me and with a major blush on ducked under the table she was setting and wouldn’t come out until I put the digital away.
Now off the Beihai Park built by the Qing dynasty, a small island, or islet at they refer to it in the middle of two large lakes. As Beijing is land locked, several lakes were created around the city and named Seas. Beihai sits between the North and Middle Seas. Additionally all waterways in Beijing are connected except those that have become polluted and these have been dammed off.
The symmetry of the design and harmony of the paintings and colors along with the cool fresh breeze off the lake amplify the tranquility of the area and we understand why the emperors would come to just enjoy the serenity.
Beihai also is home to the White Marble Pagoda, a Lama Buddhist temple high on the hill in the center of the park… didn't feel like going thorough what our guide described as a so-so temple and that we would see better on the 5th day so we move on to a spot where an old man was using the lake water to write Chinese characters on the porous stone and offered Chucky his brush to try his hand at it. The look on his face and of those around was priceless when I took his brush and proceeded to write my Mandarin name in Mandarin characters. He congratulated me in precise Mandarin on my excellent hand and was even more set back when I answered him in Mandarin. Then he and the crowd applauded as Teng told him that I was just an American on tour. Illy just loves the look this decidedly western looking dude gets when the locals try to hustle me and I tell them off in Mandarin. Still a bit rusty… but I'm getting’ it back.
Pictures all around, and we headed back through the small local residential area waving off the ever present and animatedly insistent peddlers to Jensheng Park, or as it is referred to, Coal Hill. [So named by the locals, as the previous dynasty had destroyed the pavilions and stored coal there to heat the Purple Forbidden city. The current incarnation was constructed by the Ming’s to overlook the forbidden city with 5 elaborate pavilions that once housed exquisite Buddha’s which where looted by the “8 Allied Forces” during WW II.
Teng suggests we start at the western most Pagoda and work our way to the central one for a great view of the Forbidden City. We start the climb and at once realize… this ain't gonna be so quick. Aside from being grossly out of shape, the head cold I had last week has lingered in my sinus’ and I am already pooped from the saunter through the Inner City. I really need to butch up and get this done.
For the first time in a long while I was actually feeling short of Breath.
“Common Chucky,” smirks the Dragon Lady, “just a few more steps.”
“A few more?!?!?! Looks like 10,000.”
“Quit Whining,” she begins to wheeze, “You’ll make it… Hey remember… You're in China… at Last!”
Feet don’t fail me now… hips and knees either. This climb will be the end of me [and I still have to climb the great wall!!!]… Uh-Oh… tummy starting to rumble…I sure don’t remember drinking any of the water or eating any raw veggies washed in it. Maybe it’s that slightly greasy lunch trying to push breakfast through… Now What?!? The closest “Facility” is all the way at the bottom and we haven’t climbed to the first pavilion yet…
Teng suggest that if it’s too much we should stop at the first pavilion and then head down. I must have a real flushed look but I vow to carry on. Now Illy is beginning to pant a little heaver and looks at me with that “Don’t you dare say a word” look.
Stomach really starting to rumble now but the stubborn little Sicilian pushes on to the next pavilion and after a brief rest on to the top. Teng was right… the view was breathtaking and after some basic history and several pics I announce it would be best for all if we headed down NOW because Lunch was definitely looking for an exit.
We all know that tight cheeked walk when our system is rebelling… try it down 200 meters of uneven steps and sharp inclines where every jolt of a misstep brings the sheer panic of a mortifying incident. We reach the bottom and Teng guides us to the closest facility… and not a second too soon. With baby wipes, toilet seat cover and pocket tissues in hand [thanks again Jewel] I race into the only western stall in the place and all is well in my universe.
This would be a good time to discuss a bit about The Facilities” in China. If you haven’t been to an Asian country lately be prepared for a rude awakening. While Beijing is rapidly trying to prepare for the 2008 Olympics, many of the traditional tourist sites still employ the toilet of their ancestors, “The Hole”. In most cases, a porcelain version of the hole in the ground. These nifty things resemble a western commode except they are nothing more than commode shaped hole in the floor with places to put your feet on either side so you may perform the necessary functions in a squatting position. Now while many of the ladies reading along are very familiar with the semi-squat they have had to adopt in manya messy western ladies rooms, this requires a level of dexterity and clothing avoidance most of us are unaccustomed to. Needless to say… you begin to appreciate Western plumbing in a whole new light. And as in all hits and miss public facilities…[all puns intended] you need to bring your own TP. Baby wipes are an extra precaution. Be forewarned.
With my crisis solved, its time to head out to the oldest surviving artisan factory, claiming 15 generations of skilled carpenters who have produced all the furniture in the forbidden city for the last 300 years through the last emperor Qing Pu Yi.
The workmanship at the Jingxin Yu Long Pang Furniture Factory and show room is incredible. The detail and precision of the hand carvings and furniture is exquisite. No wonder he emperor awarded one of the patriarchs of his generation with a yellow coat, [yellow being worn only by the emperor himself] therein establishing his shop as the top of the heap. Of course the purpose of half the “factory” tours is to let them hustle you in a very subtle way into buying something and of course… you don’t have to tell the tchotchke driven Dragon Lady twice that there is an “outlet shop”…right this way. Fortunately she got sticker shock at half of what she liked and settled on miniature carvings of our Chinese Zodiac animals, a tiger for her and a horse for me.
A quick run to Dinner… we were fading fast, at one of the “Best Mandarin style” restaurants around [hmmmm I'm beginning to get wise to this “Best Around” routine] but the meal was filling the soup much better and I just had to order an interesting bottle of “Dynasty” Wine, a dry red wine which was touted as sweeter than the other offering “Great Wall”. Medium dry and not soon to make my all time favorite list, but worth taking the remainder to the room as we were defintely DONE.
Back at the hotel I headed to the spa for a quick massage to get the nagging crick out of my neck since the flight… almost fell asleep on the massage table… crawl back to the room to pen last nights Beijing Day 2. I crashed at 11:30. “Take II” was actually written in the car to and from the Great Wall but who cares about the sequence… just enjoy the ride.
Tomorrow… The Great Wall…
Try to get a pic of the cute waitress trying on a paper cooks hat but she spotted me and with a major blush on ducked under the table she was setting and wouldn’t come out until I put the digital away.
Now off the Beihai Park built by the Qing dynasty, a small island, or islet at they refer to it in the middle of two large lakes. As Beijing is land locked, several lakes were created around the city and named Seas. Beihai sits between the North and Middle Seas. Additionally all waterways in Beijing are connected except those that have become polluted and these have been dammed off.
The symmetry of the design and harmony of the paintings and colors along with the cool fresh breeze off the lake amplify the tranquility of the area and we understand why the emperors would come to just enjoy the serenity.
Beihai also is home to the White Marble Pagoda, a Lama Buddhist temple high on the hill in the center of the park… didn't feel like going thorough what our guide described as a so-so temple and that we would see better on the 5th day so we move on to a spot where an old man was using the lake water to write Chinese characters on the porous stone and offered Chucky his brush to try his hand at it. The look on his face and of those around was priceless when I took his brush and proceeded to write my Mandarin name in Mandarin characters. He congratulated me in precise Mandarin on my excellent hand and was even more set back when I answered him in Mandarin. Then he and the crowd applauded as Teng told him that I was just an American on tour. Illy just loves the look this decidedly western looking dude gets when the locals try to hustle me and I tell them off in Mandarin. Still a bit rusty… but I'm getting’ it back.
Pictures all around, and we headed back through the small local residential area waving off the ever present and animatedly insistent peddlers to Jensheng Park, or as it is referred to, Coal Hill. [So named by the locals, as the previous dynasty had destroyed the pavilions and stored coal there to heat the Purple Forbidden city. The current incarnation was constructed by the Ming’s to overlook the forbidden city with 5 elaborate pavilions that once housed exquisite Buddha’s which where looted by the “8 Allied Forces” during WW II.
Teng suggests we start at the western most Pagoda and work our way to the central one for a great view of the Forbidden City. We start the climb and at once realize… this ain't gonna be so quick. Aside from being grossly out of shape, the head cold I had last week has lingered in my sinus’ and I am already pooped from the saunter through the Inner City. I really need to butch up and get this done.
For the first time in a long while I was actually feeling short of Breath.
“Common Chucky,” smirks the Dragon Lady, “just a few more steps.”
“A few more?!?!?! Looks like 10,000.”
“Quit Whining,” she begins to wheeze, “You’ll make it… Hey remember… You're in China… at Last!”
Feet don’t fail me now… hips and knees either. This climb will be the end of me [and I still have to climb the great wall!!!]… Uh-Oh… tummy starting to rumble…I sure don’t remember drinking any of the water or eating any raw veggies washed in it. Maybe it’s that slightly greasy lunch trying to push breakfast through… Now What?!? The closest “Facility” is all the way at the bottom and we haven’t climbed to the first pavilion yet…
Teng suggest that if it’s too much we should stop at the first pavilion and then head down. I must have a real flushed look but I vow to carry on. Now Illy is beginning to pant a little heaver and looks at me with that “Don’t you dare say a word” look.
Stomach really starting to rumble now but the stubborn little Sicilian pushes on to the next pavilion and after a brief rest on to the top. Teng was right… the view was breathtaking and after some basic history and several pics I announce it would be best for all if we headed down NOW because Lunch was definitely looking for an exit.
We all know that tight cheeked walk when our system is rebelling… try it down 200 meters of uneven steps and sharp inclines where every jolt of a misstep brings the sheer panic of a mortifying incident. We reach the bottom and Teng guides us to the closest facility… and not a second too soon. With baby wipes, toilet seat cover and pocket tissues in hand [thanks again Jewel] I race into the only western stall in the place and all is well in my universe.
This would be a good time to discuss a bit about The Facilities” in China. If you haven’t been to an Asian country lately be prepared for a rude awakening. While Beijing is rapidly trying to prepare for the 2008 Olympics, many of the traditional tourist sites still employ the toilet of their ancestors, “The Hole”. In most cases, a porcelain version of the hole in the ground. These nifty things resemble a western commode except they are nothing more than commode shaped hole in the floor with places to put your feet on either side so you may perform the necessary functions in a squatting position. Now while many of the ladies reading along are very familiar with the semi-squat they have had to adopt in manya messy western ladies rooms, this requires a level of dexterity and clothing avoidance most of us are unaccustomed to. Needless to say… you begin to appreciate Western plumbing in a whole new light. And as in all hits and miss public facilities…[all puns intended] you need to bring your own TP. Baby wipes are an extra precaution. Be forewarned.
With my crisis solved, its time to head out to the oldest surviving artisan factory, claiming 15 generations of skilled carpenters who have produced all the furniture in the forbidden city for the last 300 years through the last emperor Qing Pu Yi.
The workmanship at the Jingxin Yu Long Pang Furniture Factory and show room is incredible. The detail and precision of the hand carvings and furniture is exquisite. No wonder he emperor awarded one of the patriarchs of his generation with a yellow coat, [yellow being worn only by the emperor himself] therein establishing his shop as the top of the heap. Of course the purpose of half the “factory” tours is to let them hustle you in a very subtle way into buying something and of course… you don’t have to tell the tchotchke driven Dragon Lady twice that there is an “outlet shop”…right this way. Fortunately she got sticker shock at half of what she liked and settled on miniature carvings of our Chinese Zodiac animals, a tiger for her and a horse for me.
A quick run to Dinner… we were fading fast, at one of the “Best Mandarin style” restaurants around [hmmmm I'm beginning to get wise to this “Best Around” routine] but the meal was filling the soup much better and I just had to order an interesting bottle of “Dynasty” Wine, a dry red wine which was touted as sweeter than the other offering “Great Wall”. Medium dry and not soon to make my all time favorite list, but worth taking the remainder to the room as we were defintely DONE.
Back at the hotel I headed to the spa for a quick massage to get the nagging crick out of my neck since the flight… almost fell asleep on the massage table… crawl back to the room to pen last nights Beijing Day 2. I crashed at 11:30. “Take II” was actually written in the car to and from the Great Wall but who cares about the sequence… just enjoy the ride.
Tomorrow… The Great Wall…
I CANT WAIT!!!!.
再见朋友
Zài Jiàn Péng-You
Chuck and the totally exhausted but still smiling再见朋友
Zài Jiàn Péng-You
Dragon Lady.